Cross-posted from The Global Sociology Blog.
Via Lucy Siegle in the Guardian … the lady is running out of patience:
“I am unmoved by Primark’s plight. So, the retailer was badly ‘let down’ by three Indian factories that contravened the company’s ’strict ethical standards’ by outsourcing the embroidery of 20,000 on-trend pieces to small children. Retailers and brands have been offering excuses for years now, ever since the Chicago Tribune rumbled a major sportswear manufacturer using child labour in 1996. Similarly there’s a wide selection of pleas to cover the times a brand gets caught running up this season’s collection in a sweatshop – varying from downright denial or rebuttal to Gap’s surprising, ‘listen guys, we have a problem and we will fix it’ (circa 2005). (…)
The company points out that this unfortunate use of child labour was not in any way connected to the low price of the fashion it sells – apparently achieved by low mark-ups and big volumes.
I still feel uneasy. While there is no doubt that value retailers shift a lot of product, there is plenty of evidence and testimonies from garment workers to show that the pressure and speed of orders directly adds to the misery of working conditions. In the latest edition of Clothingsource, a tool for the mainstream garment trade, sourcing expert Mike Flanagan worries that, as China runs short of workers, there will be a slide back into the use of child labour.”
It is a familiar story for anyone involved in global labor issues. The big brand usually hide behind several layers of sub-contractors which provide them with plausible deniability along with the big profits. That story has been told over and over by activist groups such as the National Labor Committee (the group that made Kathy Lee Gifford cry on national TV because her kids might learn that her company used sweatshops and child labor… those labor rights bastards! It will be all their fault if KLG’s kids are traumatized).
And as Lucy Siegle states, these companies have become very creative when it comes to making excuses for their labor practices. So, they may not be the ones actively recruiting children and cuffing women to their sewing machines, but they either exercise willful ignorance or just turn a blind eye because it is highly profitable and the industry of giant retailers (with Wal-mart at its head) is highly competitive.
At the same time, in the global context, peripheral and semi-peripheral countries are full of desperate people for whom factory work actually represents economic opportunity and where the governments compete with each other to provide the greatest incentives for factories and capital to land within their borders: hence the maquiladoras and free trade zones cropping up all over Central and South America as well as all over South and South East Asia.
And the very fact that it takes daring and persistent journalists and activists to get to the bottom of labor practices in the semi-periphery and the periphery is quite revealing when it comes to the standards of the industry.
“In an industry of scant transparency, you can imagine how difficult it is for the handful of journalists who operate in this area to get solid evidence of exploitation. And yet they unearth horror stories with alarming regularity. This leads me to the depressing conclusion that the stories we see represent the tip of the iceberg rather than the exceptions.
If these ‘abuses’ are just a reality of today’s outsourced, mass-market rag trade, then it’s time retailers told us. How about a label in the must-have sun dress that reads: ‘We have absolutely no idea who made this garment because all production was outsourced to low-cost suppliers in Asia.’ Then, consumers could make a real decision about what they put in their wardrobes and whether to take the risk that a child embroidered the hem.
That way we wouldn’t have to listen to retailers competing with each other on the basis of how many ‘audits’ they do. These are famously unreliable. We are constantly told cheap-as-chips fashion is a democratiser of style and many retailers now like to add a rail of organic cotton T-shirts to show how ethical they are. Do I buy this? No, but neither can I bring myself to buy their clothes.”
And just in case we are not clear on what we are talking about here, let’s review:
The Hidden Face of Globalization




